Day 24 Dinner at the Euphrates

 SYNOPSIS: In the morning I visited the small but nice museum at Palmyra.  I took an overland bus to Deir Ez Zoor and had dinner at the Euphrates.  Struggled with an all Arabic computer screen and had a bath.FROM A SMALL TOWN TO THE PROVINCESDinner at the Euphrates.  When I sounded this out to myself, I nearly cried:  Dinner at the Euphrates!  I have been teaching about this river and its significance all my life.  How it impacted the Sumerians, the Assyrians, the Babylonians, the Persians…  It played such a role in the development of mankind and here I was, having dinner overlooking the Euphrates.  I still can’t get over it.In all honesty, I could only see the river for about ½ hour as I approached it and as I walked across a very nice pedestrian suspension bridge.  That felt a bit like Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.  I saw the magnificence of this river as three parts come together here wrapping around two islands.  It is huge.  It was already getting dark and after I sat down I had a good view of it for another 10 minutes.  I had to eat inside for it is still very cold here.  Needless to say, that I had charcoal-dark fried fish, from the river.Speaking of food:   I have been traveling for 24 days now and have not had any problems with the food or the water.  Not that you care about these details too much, but this might be good to know for future travelers to this region.   If I had been eating raw salads, brushed my teeth , or took my vitamins with tap water  - as I am doing here every day - anywhere else where I have traveled  in the developing world (Asia, Meso-or South America), I would already be violently sick.  Either I got very lucky so far, or – and I think this is it – the water quality is uniformly good. Good enough for human consumption without doing any harm.  I have also had food from street vendors, local “hole in the walls” – you saw my smoking chef, etc.   No problem.  One night I overate and I felt it.  That was with Mohamed, the suitor, in Damascus.  He simply ordered too much food.  But other than that, I am highly amazed how well travel has worked out here as far as health is concerned.  I also think that this is due in part to the season.  Summer travel would be much, much harder, if not impossible – at least for me.  So, Maria, the verdict is in:  Give me the occasional rain, give me the cold any day over the heat we had to endure in Rome.  I am not made for heat.  I am a Northern European.  We like the cold!  JMy visit to the museum this morning was pleasant.  The usual restrictions apply – local displays only.  But here, the walls were blue.  That made the displays a little less stark even though neon lights seem to be the only thing known around here.  Also, the objects were first rate and well labeled in Arabic and English.  A guide attached himself to me and explained things nicely.  He touched the objects!  I cringed, but did not say anything.  But you could see the build-up of dirt where he touched as that is where everyone else has been and will be touching also.  Ugh…It was freezing cold and the guard – without me asking – brought me a cup of tea.  Now where else in the world do you get served tea while walking through a museum?  Ugh…  I enjoyed the tea, but I felt for the objects.  At least I was not spilling any tea on anything.  I included some museum pictures today to illustrate the tombs a bit more as not much else was happening here today.I took the overland bus to Deir Ez Zoor.  There is nothing to see here but it will be my base for three days.  It is a sizable industrial town.  Lots of locals here.  Not many tourists.  I noticed that when I went to the internet.  All computer writing is in Arabic.  I don’t even know how to save a document!   I had not thought of this so far as in Damascus, the internet was frequented almost exclusively by foreigners from the surrounding hotels.  In Palmyra, there was a mix of locals and guests, but the computers were set up in both Arabic and English.  Here… I was the only foreigner, the only female surrounded by male locals – who smoked, of course.   At that point I also realized that I had not seen any local women at the internet or at the café last night.  Surely enough, girls stay at home out here.  This was slightly different in Damascus.  But this is the country.  Girls are out with their families, but they would not roam into an internet café in the evening.  I hope they are here during the day at least.  I will look out for that.By way of miscommunication I got a hotel that was much more expensive than I thought.   But the luxury!  For the first time since Beirut I do not have to use my own bed sheets.  Yes, I carry a full set of sheets with me – budget hotels … I don’t want to go into the details.  I had a towel provided!  I carry a towel substitute (is it called shammy?) and a full set of toiletries such as soap, shampoo, etc.  since none of that can be expected.  A tiny bar of soap was even part of this set up.  And in addition to the TV, the functioning heater, and a closet with hangers (no usually I don’t get hangers either), I have a refrigerator.And the bathroom…   In my usual class of hotels, the bathrooms are little larger than a shower stall in the States.  Toilet, sink and shower are crammed into one small space in which you can hardly turn.  The shower really is only a shower head splashing water all over sink and toilet.   Here, there is walking room between all these appliances, hot water for 24 hours and a bathtub!  I was in heaven last night soaking in the tub until I got shriveled.  I have to live it up as today I will look for a budget solution again.I have not been able to get to my blog lately.  I suspect filters or other higher powers blocking access.  So, if I do not respond to your comments, that is the reason why.  I have been able to email my son my reports and he is posting them for me for now.  Email is working fine and I do get a copy of your comments forwarded.  So, keep them coming.  I love hearing from you.Good night.