DAY 9 - ELEPHANTINE
SYNOPSIS: I explored Elephantine and two more islands near Aswan. An introduction to Nilometers. And an update on the political situation in Aswan.
9 o’clock “Egyptian time” (that means 10 AM according to my watch) Mustafa finally appeared to make me breakfast. Life is slow here and time does not mean what it means in other parts of the world. I have to remember that. Since breakfast only consists of an already boiled cold egg, some bread and jam and some hot tea, and there is nobody here except me, I think I can help myself as of tomorrow and get out at a more reasonable hour. I wanted to explore the island today. It is only about 2 km long and could not possibly be wider than 1/2 km if that, yet 6000 people live here according to Hamdan, a man whom I met today and who told me a few things about the history of this area. When I tried to verify the number with Mustafa, he told me 2500. So, it’s anyone’s guess. But for sure there are two villages, Siou and Koti and all the people here are Nubians. They speak their own language, in fact two languages. Once there were hundreds of Nubian settlement between here and what now is Sudan, but almost all of them were dismantled when the big Aswan dam was built in the 1960’s. Nubians are proud to be Nubians. They are very dark skinned and many of their handicrafts have a distinctly African feel to them.
The island’s Northern part – as I mentioned yesterday – has been defaced by this ungodly Movenpick Resort. The Southern part is an active archaeological dig and contains the remains of the original Nubian settlement Abu way before there was ever an Aswan. It goes back to pre-Pharaonic times (3000 BC). The Southern part of the island is raised and must have been ideal for a settlement withstanding any rising of the Nile floodwaters without harm. The actual museum was closed – I think this is still part of the general closing of cultural institutions in the country. But adjacent is an outdoor museum and that was open. Most important to me were two Nilometers. One from Pharaonic times, the other from the Ptolemaic era.
Nilometers were important power tools of the pharaohs to “prove” their divine nature. The Egyptians assigned god-status to just about any super-human figure (especially animals) which could provide something for them they were not able to provide for themselves. For example, cats would catch mice - that was essential and obviously a god-given gift to protect the grain. Or baboons would bring about the sun with their timely screams in the morning – you get the picture. But the pharaoh was too obviously a human. To prove his dual nature he had to do something “super-human”. Predicting the flood was an awesome thing, necessary for every Egyptian to survive. And so the pharaoh, in conjunction with some priests, controlled this very secret and very useful tool: the Nilometer. It was simply a measuring device, hidden in strategically important temples which allowed the priests to calculate the levels of the flood; from droughts to normal to excessive waters. This information, which was simply based on years of careful observation and record keeping, could then be distributed, ahead of the actual flood, among the people as the divine word of the ruler. And in return, the pharaoh would be able to justify his divinity. Isn’t it amazing how little it takes to manipulate people into believing in god(s)? It worked. I have made it part of my mission this time to see as many Nilometers as possible. Already in Cairo, I missed one…
As I was touring the museum on the island, chants of protesters echoed across the Nile – the Aswan opposition on the streets! According to Mustafa, most Nubians want Mubarak out. Many from Aswan, he said, left to be in Cairo, including two of his cousins. And on Fridays, Tuesdays, and Sundays, the people have vowed to be out and to protest until there is change. Last Friday, an estimated 25,000 were out to protest. Today there were more and on Friday Mustafa predicted 100,000. Not bad for little Aswan! On my way to the Internet, I saw a change from yesterday, too. One tank was parked on the main road and armed soldiers were guarding the banks. All else was calm by the time I made it to the main land. In Aswan there was no looting, no burning, and there were no casualties. But there was evidence for the people’s sentiment: A poster – high up on the side of a building showed Mubarak next to the pyramids. Mubarak’s face was sliced and his side of the poster torn. I have no idea how the people got up that high. But food supplies have been stable, and actually increased since the revolution broke out. Mustafa sees in this a sign of the government to bribe the people. There were long lines for food before the outbreak of the demonstrations. People were frustrated. Now, there are none. But the people want more than food!
On my way to the Internet I ran into captain Meme. He had taken me from the Corniche to Baba Dool in his boat yesterday. As the Egyptian custom is, you deal with somebody once and you know them. When you meet them again, you become a friend. And by the third time you are practically family. He greeted me with a big hallo and as we started talking, I realized how late it was and that I had also planned a visit to Kitchener today, the island across Elephantine which I can see from my window. I was going to hire Baba Dool’s captain Mr. Abdulla, but here was captain Meme and he needed work. I changed my plans and hired him for a tour to the island. Kitchener Island was famous in the early 20th century for its exotic plants and an extraordinary array of birds. It is a botanical garden, but since I am not that into plants, I could not fully appreciate its value. But I had a pleasant stroll, enjoying the late afternoon sun, great views of the Noble Tombs and my hotel. But most of all, I enjoyed the shade those mature trees provided. I was close to a heat stroke at the museum this morning. The sun is beating down in full force. I voluntarily put on my scarf to protect myself! This shaded island was a nice change.
On the way home, captain Meme – really, he is just a young guy, hardly older than my son, but I call him “Captain Meme” which he finds amusing – asked if I wanted to see his family farm. Of course! For generations, his family has owned one of the islands south of Aswan which form the first of at least five cataracts. Aswan and Abu before it, were always really important for being the southern most cities of ancient Egypt, just north of the cataracts which provide protection from invaders. But just to be on the safe side, Abu always had a fortress. On this island, his family has cultivated an amazing variety of fruit trees ranging from mangos to guava, to bananas, including a plot full of hibiscus plants. And on the side, they are raising a few water buffalos that are sold to the local butcher when ready. All the fruits are harvested and sold to Cairo markets. This is one of the ways some Egyptians are upgrading their meager earnings. I confirmed today, that most people make around $100 per month. If you made $300 you are positively rich. If you have four children, you can just imagine what that means. You simply have to work two jobs, or figure out some other way of income. Selling trinkets to the tourists is one of them, especially around here.
Speaking of tourists, there are still none. Egypt Air is normally flying several planes daily from here to Abu Simbel, arguably the most impressive of all Egyptian temples. Currently there are none. All flights have been canceled indefinitely, until the tourists return. This is just my kind of luck. But I am sure, I will find a way. Just not a touristy one.
I am now definitely and completely cut off of all international news. If there is anything I should know, please send me a comment on the blog or an email.
Thanks and good night.
P.S. I found a bus which takes the locals south. I will take it to Abu Simbel tomorrow. This will likely put me out of touch for two day. Just imagine - I might have Abu Simbel to myself! Unheard of!