DAY 28 - CASH COWS
SYNOPSIS: Aubrey and I hired a taxi and visited the pyramids at Dashur, Saqqara, and Abu Sir – some of the “other” 180 some pyramids of Egypt. Once again we were treated like cash cows…
Using a pyramid as a toilet is a disgrace, to say the least – but there was no doubt that it had been done at the Red Pyramid of Dashur, one of the pre-Giza pyramids and the only one open to visitors at that site. After making the 63 meter (180 feet) steep passage down and up, my knees felt like jelly and I could hardly manage the steps down back to the bottom of the pyramid. Boy, am I getting old, or what? I was glad to hear that 44 year old Aubrey had the same experience. Perhaps, that’s just what happens after you have to walk bent down for 126 meters; the entry channels are at the most 4-5 feet tall. If you are claustrophobic or have any other physical limitations, forget it; pyramids are not for you.
DASHUR RED PYRAMID
There are three chambers between 12 and 15 meters high (36-45 feet) that are corbelled with huge stone slabs; a truly amazing effect considering the weight above and the precision of the stone fitting. But the deeper you go into the structure, the less oxygen there is. The stench increased and when I stopped breathing through my nose to avoid it, my eyes started to itch from the “ammonium”.
Only the Red and the Bent Pyramid are accessible by car. I wish I had taken the time to hike out to the Black Pyramid visible in the distance, but it would easily have added an hour to the day and all pyramids close at 4 PM in the winter. I have no clue why as there is sun until 6 PM.
Saqqara was a shock. I had seen it 15 years ago and there were changes – some good, some bad. A beautiful museum has been added with valuable explanations, models, and some choice objects excavated at the necropolis. Aubrey was thrown out since he refused to baksheesh the officer who had let him in at a student price with an expired student ID…
SAQQARA PYRAMID WITH SCAFFOLDING
But the pyramid itself was covered with scaffolding and I could see where this was going: Shiny white sandstone facing was applied in whole areas of the pyramid… Is it really crumbling that badly or are we just “cleaning up” and over-restoring as in so many other places? Soon Egypt will look like a fake Hollywood set. Three sides of the pyramid were off limits to visitors due to construction, but I passed by one of the workers in slow pace with a big smile and a greeting. Since I was not stopped, I circled the entire pyramid. Not that there was anything unusual, but I was curious.
Abu Sir was a site I had never heard of. It’s another necropolis on the west side between Saqqara and Giza. For some reason, they manage there to completely ignore the officially set ticket price of 15 Egyptian pounds. You can only get in after negotiating with the site-keeper and you won’t get a receipt. From 100 Egyptian pounds to 50 to 25 per person - he finally accepted at that after we explained that we were teachers. And then there was the guide inside who wanted more baksheesh. Have they ever heard of sharing? All of this is under the table anyhow! I don’t understand how they got and get away with that.
But the site was interesting for a clearly visible causeway which is part of a full funerary complex consisting of usually five main parts: Access to the Nile via a water channel, a funerary temple for mummification, a causeway for transport of the mummy, the pyramid as burial place, but most importantly, the mortuary temple adjacent to the pyramid. That was the actual heart of the operation where worship and sacrifice of the deceased pharaoh would continue until decades after his death, usually until funds ran out or dynasties changed. In many cases the pyramids completely overshadow these other parts and in even more cases there is hardly a trace left of any of them. There were also a number of mastabas, bench-like tombs usually constructed by court officials in the vicinity of their pharaoh.
By the time we finished, there was no time left for Giza. No wonder, the way Aubrey and I doddle and take pictures and take our time. No problem. We will do the rest tomorrow via public transportation. These three sites though can only be reached via taxi or tour bus and are skipped by many.
Our taxi driver was a cheerful, talkative man with all the typical tricks of a driver who takes tourists around. He ushered us into a particular falafel place and was not pleased when I walked across the street to get a chocolate milk drink instead. He stopped at a particular “insider” carpet place which thankfully was closed. And he insisted on an hour lunch even though both Aubrey and I protested. But he stopped anyhow. I ordered water and a coke and paid about three times as much as that would have cost anywhere. I loudly complained and asked him what that lunch he recommended would have cost me: 50 Egyptian pounds. “That’s small money”, he said. No way, I protested. That is $10 and I don’t even have dinner for that much. I can eat for a tenth of that price getting take-out and I do since I am not a rich tourist but a teacher on a four month budget travel. This is a concept that is hard to get into anyone’s head here.
When we paid him at the end of the day his 200 Egyptian pounds – a more than fair price for a day’s outing which we had agreed upon up front and to which I added a 20 pound tip – he complained! He waived the 20 into my face and asked “This is all you are giving me?” No, I am giving you 200 pound plus tip! He ignored the 200 and kept waiving the 20 around trying to put me on the usual guilt trip. I finally just got out of the car. Once again, a wonderful day left a somewhat unpleasant aftertaste in my mouth.
At night I went to a nearby fast food place called GAD. It’s one of my great discoveries. For truly reasonable prices I get wonderful soup, egg plant dishes, hummus, etc. If I wanted, I could splurge and get expensive local meat dishes. But I am just as happy with the cheap vegetarian food which is truly delicious.
And so, with a full stomach I say: Good night.